Resort season’s rise: when luxury travel became a runway spectacle
Every January through March, the fashion world explodes in a predictable, meticulously orchestrated frenzy – a cascade of menswear and couture shows in Milan and Paris, followed by the perennial New York women’s week and the international circuit’s relentless return. But beneath the glossy veneer of celebrity sightings and designer drama lies a surprisingly ancient tradition: the resort collection.
A coastal conundrum: the origins of ‘cruise’ collections
The idea, initially, was simple enough – affluent Europeans supplementing their wardrobes with seasonally appropriate attire before embarking on post-Christmas voyages aboard ocean liners. Coco Chanel, a shrewd operator, was among the first to capitalize on this burgeoning market, establishing her jersey sportswear empire and boutiques in Deauville and Biarritz. Tomorrow, her legacy continues with a show in Saint-Tropez, a testament to enduring coastal chic.
From beach pajamas to high fashion
By the latter half of the 20th century, leisure Travel became increasingly accessible, fueling a broader seasonal ready-to-wear market. Clever marketers realized the opportunity to create ‘off-season’ offerings – a grab bag of lightweight fabrics and breezy silhouettes designed to entice shoppers between the fall and summer collections. Louis Vuitton, showcased in Avignon, France, exemplifies this strategic shift.
The grand central gambit
It wasn’t until 2007, when Chanel staged a show at Grand Central Station, that the resort shows truly ascended to a glamorous event in their own right. Karl Lagerfeld’s extravagant, highly photogenic sets – a deliberate provocation, really – set a new standard. Suddenly, these collections weren’t just about selling clothes; they were about crafting an experience, a moment of carefully curated spectacle. Consider Chanel’s show in Cuba in 2017, a historic event that garnered international attention and solidified the resort show’s status.
A shift in focus: stateside style
This season, something feels distinctly different. While European houses continue to flock to the US – Jonathan Anderson at Christian Dior in Los Angeles and Demna at Gucci in New York, followed closely by Louis Vuitton’s Nicolas Ghesquière – the US itself appears to be driving the trend. Forget the capri pants of Cannes; we’re seeing a surge in bermuda shorts in Brooklyn. The emphasis is shifting, subtly yet powerfully, towards bolder, more conceptual collections. This isn't just about escapism; it’s about a deliberate recalibration of what luxury means in the 21st century.
And frankly, it’s about time. The industry has long operated on a schedule dictated by hype, not substance. Let’s hope this renewed interest in American soil – and American style – signals a move away from the predictable and towards something truly innovative.