Runway exclusion deepens: size inclusivity hits three-year low

The fashion industry’s persistent struggle with size inclusivity reached a concerning nadir this season. Fall/Winter 2026 runway shows revealed a stark reality: the overwhelming majority of looks still cater to a narrow range of body types, leaving many consumers feeling unseen and unrepresented.

The numbers don't lie: a dismal picture

Vogue Business’s latest Size Inclusivity Report paints a bleak picture. Across 182 shows and presentations, a staggering 97.6% of the 7,817 looks featured straight-size models (US 0-4). A mere 2.1% showcased mid-size (US 6-12) options, while plus-size representation (US 14+) dwindled to a paltry 0.3%. This marks the lowest inclusivity rate observed in three years of tracking.

Is inclusivity a trend, or a lasting shift?

Hollie Schliftman, casting director for Christian Siriano’s show and a veteran of the industry, voices a critical concern: “At times, it can feel like size inclusivity is treated as a moment or a trend, rather than a permanent shift in how the industry approaches representation.” She rightly points out that while aspiration has always been part of fashion’s DNA, true aspiration should reflect the world we inhabit – a world where the majority of women don’t wear sizes 0 or 2.

The increasing visibility of runways, thanks to live streams, amplifies the impact of these exclusionary practices. Emma Matell, who cast shows for Lueder, Tolu Coker, and Cecilie Bahnsen, notes, “Now, it affects the general population much more because they can essentially sit front row via a live stream.”

The erasure of women’s bodies

Chloe Rosolek, who cast Karoline Vitto’s FW26 show, delivers a particularly stinging assessment: “What’s saddest about the regression in inclusion is that we are watching the erasure of women’s bodies take place.” The reality, she argues, is that models are either forced to conform to unrealistic standards or sidelined entirely. The irony is palpable: a vast market of potential customers remains largely ignored.

The casting director's perspective: power and responsibility

Casting directors occupy a critical position, acting as intermediaries between designers, stylists, models, and agencies. They possess a unique understanding of the realities of size inclusivity on the runway. While designers hold the ultimate decision-making power, casting directors can—and arguably should—advocate for broader representation. “The designers who are most receptive are the ones who already understand that women—and people in general—are not one size,” explains Schliftman.

Production realities vs. creative vision

The limitations often stem from production constraints. Collections are frequently developed in standard sample sizes, leaving little room for adjustments. Even street casting, while offering some diversity, isn't a complete solution. Agents, wary of their models being overshadowed by less established figures, may discourage participation in more inclusive shows. The pressure is felt across the board, with some curve models reportedly receiving discounts for GLP-1 medications, highlighting the pervasive influence of unrealistic beauty standards.

A shift to campaigns?

Barbara Pfister, a casting veteran with experience at Calvin Klein, Fendi, and Louis Vuitton, suggests that campaigns may offer a more fertile ground for inclusivity. “With the shows, it’s all so rushed,