Soares' 'bottega' blooms: a new york story forged in chaos
The air in 121st Street’s latest culinary haven crackles with a carefully cultivated energy – a blend of sourdough aromas, the clinking of martini glasses, and the easy laughter of a disparate group of diners. Daniel Soares, proprietor and architect of this ‘bottega,’ presides over it all with an understated grace, meticulously adjusting stone fruit and refilling glasses.
From pop-up panic to elevated experience
Soares’ Alimentari Flaneur began, as many of New York’s most compelling narratives do, in the disorienting spring of 2020. Faced with the city’s lockdown, he launched a pop-up produce market, a desperate attempt to fill a void. That initial venture laid the groundwork for the current space, a meticulously crafted basement restaurant that’s quickly becoming a word-of-mouth sensation.
The project’s evolution, however, was far from planned. Soares, a fourth-generation Balducci, initially envisioned replicating Dean & Deluca’s model. But after a few years, he realized a grand-scale gourmet grocery wasn’t his calling. The ‘bottega’ – a space evoking a bygone era of dining – emerged organically, fueled by a desire to create a truly special experience.
“Everything I thought I could use, I had to remove,” Soares admits, recalling the arduous renovation of the family-owned building. He painstakingly aged a tin ceiling, hand-built the kitchen with salvaged appliances, and enlisted local help to plaster the walls, crafting a space that feels both familiar and utterly unique. Joel Harding and Yuria Kailich of Enso Design played a crucial role in shaping the flexible floor plan, ensuring the space could accommodate everything from intimate dinners to larger gatherings.
“He’d send me photos of barstools from Home Depot, asking what I thought,” Kailich recalls with a smile. “I nixed that pretty quickly.” The result is a layered environment – frosted windows, lace curtains, rustic lighting – a deliberate attempt to manufacture authenticity, avoiding the pitfalls of predictable luxury. The space, Soares explains, is a testament to the power of collaboration and a willingness to ‘just say yes.’
Even the ethos of Alimentari Flaneur – a refusal to operate as a members’ club and a commitment to maintaining a casual atmosphere – reflects Soares’ vision. “The vibe and atmosphere were always what we were after,” Harding emphasizes. “And it’s nice to see that brought to life.” Krissy Jones, co-founder of Sky Ting, describes Soares’ space as “an idea brought to life by people who said, fuck it, let’s just keep saying yes to each other and have fun doing it.”
Soares, a man perpetually engaged and radiating hospitality, embodies the spirit of the ‘bottega.’ “This space is beautiful because it’s an idea brought to life by people who said, fuck it, let’s just keep saying yes to each other and have fun doing it,” he concludes. “Which is what I want for everyone who comes through. Just say yes. It’s a lot of fun.”