Performance wear's green shift: can nature match the machine?
The relentless pursuit of peak performance in athletic wear has long relied on a cocktail of synthetic fibers and chemical treatments. But a growing tide of concern – from regulators to consumers – is forcing brands to rethink their approach. The question isn’t whether change is coming, but whether natural alternatives can truly deliver on the demanding promises of performance wear.
The pfas problem and the 'clothing is skincare' movement
The spotlight is intensifying on ‘forever chemicals,’ specifically PFAS, used extensively for water and stain repellency. Global regulators are tightening the screws, and the rise of the “clothing is skincare” ethos—where consumers meticulously scrutinize garment chemistry—is adding further pressure. Retailers, eager to capitalize on the ‘clean fashion’ trend, are finding that upholding these promises is far more complex than it appears.
The challenge is stark: replicating the stretch, recovery, water repellence, and odor control offered by synthetics using natural or naturally derived materials requires a fundamental reimagining of product design. Tera Mira, a bio-based elastane startup founded in 2025 and recognized by the H&M Foundation, exemplifies this uphill battle. Using seaweed as feedstock, they’re striving for a fossil-fuel-free alternative, currently achieving a stretch range of 50% to 100%—a significant gap compared to the 500% offered by conventional synthetic elastane. Pilots on industrial spinning lines are slated for 2027, with licensing expected in 2028 or 2029, contingent on refining formulation and securing consistent feedstock supplies.
Collaboration is key: armedangels, lenzing, and the plastic-free windbreaker
The path toward sustainable performance wear isn't a solo endeavor; it demands cross-industry collaboration. Armedangels’ nearly plastic-free windbreaker stands as a testament to this. The development involved a five-way partnership, described by director of impact and innovation Julia Kirschner as “co-development.” Lenzing, the Austrian cellulosic fiber producer known for Tencel and Ecovero, played a pivotal role. While Lenzing didn't have a fabric with the required density, they collaborated with Taiwanese mill HerMin—specializing in natural functional fabrics—to create a 100% Tencel Lycocell ripstop fabric. Manuela Gesslbauer, head of global brand partnerships at Lenzing, emphasizes their commitment to supporting brands “on a fiber level.”
However, even this innovative windbreaker isn't entirely plastic-free. A small patch of coating at the base of the zip remains, a reminder of the compromises inherent in this transition. Testing revealed no intentionally added PFAS, a critical victory, and the jacket is now a permanent addition to Armedangels’ collections. The jacket is 97% wind-proof, but less effective against heavy rain, demonstrating that performance trade-offs are often unavoidable.
Bio-based elastane and the yoga revolution
Stretch remains a significant hurdle, particularly in sportswear. Hyosung TNC, the world’s largest manufacturer of elastane, is investing $1 billion to explore bio-based feedstocks. Their partnership with Lenzing to launch a yoga collection in October 2025 showcases the potential of combining bio-based elastane (70% corn-based, now transitioning to sugarcane) with Lenzing’s Tencel and Ecovero fibers. Simon Whitmarsh-Knight, global marketing and sustainability director, acknowledges the limitations: “We can’t call it 100% natural,” yet.
Bluesign's rigorous standards: the spartan jacket story
Beyond material innovation, responsible chemistry is paramount. Ridestore’s Spartan jacket, a city-ready ski jacket, exemplifies this approach. The jacket’s production involves five separate factories, each vetted through the Bluesign System Partnership. This certification ensures adherence to strict environmental and safety standards, including ventilation, emissions control, and water treatment. Ashish Ahlawat, Ridestore’s head of R&D, emphasizes the importance of continuous monitoring and chemical change meetings. The result? A jacket tested and confirmed to be free of intentionally added PFAS.
The process is painstaking, requiring constant vigilance and collaboration. “You need to implement corrective action for the facility, so they don’t [use] it going forward,” Ahlawat notes. While the journey towards truly non-toxic performance wear is far from over, these early movers are proving that a greener, more responsible future for athletic apparel is within reach. The question now is whether the rest of the industry will follow suit, or if performance will continue to trump planetary health.