Tbilisi fashion week rises from the ashes, a testament to resilience

The electric optimism that pulsed through Tbilisi during my first visit to Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week (MBFW) in 2018 feels like a distant memory. Back then, Demna Gvasalia’s ascendance at Balenciaga and Vetements had put the Georgian capital squarely on the fashion world’s radar, a breeding ground for the next generation of breakout stars. But the landscape has shifted dramatically.

A nation’s struggle, a creative community’s fight

The shadow of Russia’s invasion of Ukraine cast a long pall over Georgia, as the nation’s increasingly conservative Georgian Dream party embraced pro-Russian policies. Political unrest and violent protests disrupted fashion week and threatened the very existence of the local creative community. The subsequent passage of an anti-LGBTQ+ bill in 2024 further compounded the challenges, impacting the industry both commercially and creatively.

Yet, the spirit of Tbilisi refuses to be extinguished. Sofia Tchkonia, the founder of MBFW Tbilisi, responded with Culture Days, a scaled-down showcase allowing designers to express themselves amidst the turmoil. Now, the Fall/Winter 2026 edition, held from May 7 to 11, marks a significant return—the first since May 2023—and a powerful declaration of resilience.

“While we were on pause, several Georgian designers continued to grow globally, navigating incredibly difficult circumstances,” Tchkonia explains. “There was a clear need to reconnect local talent with international buyers, press, and industry professionals. Relaunching MBFW Tbilisi is about supporting that momentum and forging a new chapter for Georgian fashion.”

Beyond the runway: authenticity forged in adversity

The challenges facing Georgia—economic uncertainty, regional instability, and geopolitical tensions—have undeniably impacted production, logistics, and investment. But, as Tchkonia notes, they’ve also served to strengthen the authenticity and emotional depth of the work emerging from the country. God Era’s show, for instance, featured a striking installation: a giant tongue sculpture, a pointed commentary on the censorship designers face.

Nathalie Dufour, Andam Prize founder and a seasoned observer of the fashion landscape, was particularly struck by the week’s offerings. “There’s a unique and dramatic quality to Georgian designers,” she observed, noting the blend of commercial viability and rich inspiration, ranging from Saint Laurent to Balenciaga. “It’s not easy building an international career here, but the passion driving these designers is truly remarkable.”

Scaling against the odds: a new generation rises

While established brands like Situationist (now showing on the Paris Fashion Week calendar) and Keburia (with 12 global stockists) have achieved international recognition, the return of MBFW Tbilisi is particularly vital for a new cohort of designers eager to reach wider audiences. Lado Bokuchava, returning to the runway for the first time since 2020, emphasized the need to “make it big, bigger, and bigger again,” echoing a sentiment shared across the industry.

However, the path isn't without its obstacles. Aleksandre Akhalkatsishvili, like many, has faced dwindling stockists, a consequence of broader economic pressures. The return of MBFW Tbilisi, he stresses, is “crucial for both business and creative development.” The recent passage of the “foreign agents” law, classifying designers with significant international business as foreign agents, adds another layer of complexity and threat.

A creative exodus and a fight for identity

The rise in conservatism has prompted a creative exodus from Georgia, a painful reality reflected in the shows this season. Goderidze’s God Era collection featured models speaking of leaving, a poignant reflection of the anxieties felt by the younger generation. Even Akà Prodiàshvili, a celebrated designer, recently relocated to Berlin, citing threats and the increasing difficulty of operating as an LGBTQ+ artist in Georgia. “Our existence is resistance,” declared drag queen Otaraant Queer at the drag ball, a defiant statement that encapsulates the spirit of the Tbilisi creative community.

The FW26 edition showcased a renewed focus on storytelling, identity, and resilience. Tchkonia envisions MBFW Tbilisi evolving into a long-term cultural and industry platform, supporting both established and emerging designers and fostering meaningful international engagement. The future of Georgian fashion hinges on this renewed commitment—a testament to the enduring power of creativity in the face of adversity.