Menswear's bold shift: from jfk lookalikes to harry styles' big shorts
The menswear scene is undergoing a seismic shift, trading in the echoes of past icons for a daringly modern aesthetic. From the resurgence of 1960s silhouettes – think JFK Jr. lookalikes and Michael Rider’s Celine – to the unapologetic embrace of oversized shorts championed by Harry Styles, the industry is responding to a distinctly new mood.
A new era of confidence
As spring 2027 collections kick off in Pitti, Milan, and Paris, the demand for elevated menswear is palpable. Three leading experts – stylist Marcus Allen, Nordstrom menswear director Jian DeLeon, and podcast hosts Lawrence Schlossman and Ethan Saxon – offer a glimpse into this evolving landscape. They’ve dissected the designers, brands, and influences shaping this moment, revealing a surprising blend of nostalgia, luxury, and youthful exuberance.
Haider ackermann: the underrated icon
“Haider Ackermann at Tom Ford is doing something truly remarkable,” explains Jian DeLeon. “He’s merging traditional tailoring with a luxurious sensibility, meeting the male desire for a certain kind of sexiness – a subtle, almost defiant confidence. His sport coats hug your shoulders, demanding you stand tall. His trousers and silk shirts evoke a touch of ’70s sleaze, a playful acknowledgement of a slightly naughty side.”
Beyond the runway: emerging voices
“Thom Browne is expanding his brand universe brilliantly,” adds DeLeon, referencing the recent Asics collaboration. “His denim – especially the selvedge straight-leg jeans – is exceptional, offering a versatile foundation for any look.” Marcus Allen highlights Zane Li at Lii, praising his use of nylon sets, “They’re sporty yet elegant, reminiscent of Raf Simons and Jil Sander’s approach—a feeling of effortless cool that's becoming increasingly desirable.”
The influence of style icons
Marcus Allen notes his personal preferences: “I shop The Row for the longevity and inherent value. Commission captures brand integrity, while Raimundo Langlois brings a distinct Americana vibe – a refreshing antidote to the copy-paste trends dominating the market. Dries Van Noten represents a lifestyle, a curated world of furniture and art.” Lawrence Schlossman, on the other hand, leans towards Japanese brands, citing Auralee, Ssstein, and A. Presse, admitting a fondness for URU, Niceness, Yoke, and Graphpaper – brands operating largely outside the traditional fashion calendar.
Navigating the retail maze
“The retail landscape is fascinating,” observes Allen. “We’re seeing department stores struggle, but smaller boutiques are thriving. It’s about finding brands with genuine identity, those willing to invest in the customer experience.” Schlossman echoes this sentiment, emphasizing the importance of personal style and the rise of independent creators. “I’m increasingly drawn to Instagram accounts showcasing individual looks—it’s a far cry from the polished, influencer-driven narratives of the past.”
Trends and beyond
“The term ‘trend’ is becoming obsolete,” argues Jian DeLeon. “We’re moving towards ‘aura’ and ‘vibe.’ Social media has fragmented the collective consciousness, creating personalized ‘For You’ pages—a far cry from the shared brand matrix of previous decades.” Lawrence Schlossman agrees, highlighting the speed of trend cycles and the challenge of staying ahead of the curve. “It’s a constant chase, but also a fascinating glimpse into how our tastes are being shaped by algorithms.”
A note on influence
While celebrity influence remains significant—think Neil Mockford, Keanu Reeves, and Brad Pitt—the true power now lies with smaller creators and unexpected brands. It’s a shift away from the glossy, aspirational imagery of the past, towards a more authentic, community-driven approach. The power of menswear is no longer about mimicking the elite; it's about expressing individual identity.
Final thoughts
The menswear industry isn’t simply reacting to trends; it’s actively shaping them. From the resurgence of prep to the embrace of bold silhouettes, the focus is on confidence, individuality, and a willingness to push boundaries. And as the industry continues to evolve, one thing remains certain: menswear is no longer a separate category—it’s an integral part of the broader cultural conversation. The numbers don’t lie: menswear sales are up 18% year-over-year, a testament to the growing importance of men’s style.