Kane revives mulberry: a london fashion week reset?
The tremors of excitement rippled through London’s Fashion scene this morning with the seismic announcement: Christopher Kane is the new creative director at Mulberry. After a period of absence that felt, frankly, like a cultural oversight, the designer known for his subversive glamour is poised to inject a fresh dose of irreverence into the heritage brand.
A self-portrait residency rekindled the flame
Kane’s departure from his own label in 2023 left a palpable void, a sense of potential unrealized. A glimpse of what the world was missing arrived in 2024 with his electrifying collaboration with Self-Portrait. The launch wasn't merely a collection reveal; it was a full-blown happening—a joyous, chaotic collision of a 1960s salon, a dinner party, and a vibrant Fashion shoot where models seemed to spontaneously erupt into dance. The collection, a clever homage to his 2006 debut, sold out instantly, a powerful signal of the enduring desirability of the Kane aesthetic.
Now, with Andrea Baldo, Mulberry’s CEO, at the helm, that desirability is channeled into a full-scale comeback. Kane and his sister, Tammy, are reportedly already immersed in the Mulberry studio on Kensington Church Street, diligently preparing for a show at London Fashion Week in September. This return isn't just a boost for Kane; it's a lifeline for Mulberry, which hasn’t showcased ready-to-wear on the runway since February 2017.
Mulberry's roots and a legacy of playfulness
Founded by Roger Saul in 1971 as a leather goods company rooted in the Somerset countryside—a heritage the brand continues to honor with its bag and leather goods factories—Mulberry carries a distinctly British pedigree. Previous creative directors, including Stuart Vevers, Emma Hill, and Jonny Coca, layered this foundation with a playful, often girly sensibility. But what will Kane bring to this established landscape?
Predictions are, as always with Kane, a fool’s errand. His signature is unpredictability, that delightful element of surprise that elevates each collection beyond expectation. But one thing is clear: Kane is a master of the dress, consistently blurring the lines between provocation and polished style. In a world craving optimism and a touch of escapism, his ability to conjure vibrant, dance-worthy dresses feels particularly resonant.
His influences are notoriously eclectic—a spectrum ranging from Planet of the Apes to the provocative world of Cynthia Payne, and from school biology textbooks to the visual language of The Joy of Sex. What consistently emerges is a collection meticulously crafted with Kane’s signature techniques, yet possessing an undeniable wearability. The marriage of this audacious creativity with Mulberry's heritage in shearling, biker jackets, and luxurious knits—a nod to his early collaborations with Johnstons of Elgin—promises a compelling synthesis of high Fashion and practical luxury.
The question, then, isn't if Kane will impress, but how he will redefine Mulberry's role in the modern Fashion ecosystem. Professor Louise Wilson OBE, Kane’s influential mentor at Central Saint Martin’s, famously demanded “Impress me.” And judging by the energy already surrounding this appointment, Kane is poised to deliver a resounding answer.