Cave unveils darkly romantic new bridal & funeral line – years after vampire’s wife collapse
Susie Cave, the enigmatic designer behind the cult-favorite ‘Vampire’s Wife,’ is returning to the world of haute couture with a strikingly intimate new venture: ‘Susie Cave Weddings & Funerals.’ The launch took place amidst the opulent art deco setting of Eltham Palace, a testament to her penchant for the dramatic and the darkly beautiful.
A gothic revelation
Nestled within the lavish chaise longue of Eltham Palace, Cave presented her latest creation – a black iridescent silk-velvet gown bearing the intriguing label ‘Susie Cave Weddings & Funerals.’ This unexpected collection, a far cry from the subversive, playful aesthetic of ‘The Vampire’s Wife,’ promises a ‘surreal, strange, beautiful and secretive experience,’ as Cave herself describes it. The brand’s focus on bespoke, embellished white and black demi-couture is a deliberate shift, signaling a new chapter in her multifaceted career.
From dreams to dresses
‘Like my brand The Vampire’s Wife – which was subversive, funny and mischievous – its name is not literally a description of what it is,’ Cave explained, sipping jasmine pearl tea. She revealed that many of her designs originate in vivid dreams, a process she describes as “dressing her emotions.” Currently, only 25 made-to-order pieces are being shown to a select few, including Bella Freud and Florence Welch, with Vogue as a privileged third viewer. Welch’s reaction – ‘There’s something about Susie’s designs that make me feel so powerful, and yet always comfortable and totally myself’ – speaks volumes about the brand’s unique allure.
A legacy of loss and resilience
The closure of ‘The Vampire’s Wife’ in 2024, following a tumultuous period with ambitious investors, remains a painful memory for Cave. The loss of her son, Arthur, in 2015, and her stepson, Jethro, in 2022, cast a long shadow. Yet, she insists that these experiences have fostered an inner strength, allowing her to navigate the current retail landscape with unflinching determination. ‘Past experiences have built a resilience and inner strength that leaves little room for ordinary apprehensions,’ she stated, hinting at the profound personal tragedies that have shaped her journey.
A different aesthetic
While retaining her signature focus on texture and opulent embellishments – think capes, trains, and veils – Cave is deliberately moving away from the ruffled, retro-inspired look of her earlier work. ‘There’s not a flower pattern in sight,’ she declared, emphasizing a commitment to refined, sophisticated silhouettes. ‘It’s all to do with the textures of the 100 per cent silk, silk-velvet or organdy – anything that feels good to wear.’ The bespoke nature of the collection, and the individualized attention to detail, is a key differentiator, promising a deeply personal and exclusive experience.
A circle of confidence
Currently, the new venture is only available to a small circle of clients, including Keira Knightley, Dakota Johnson and Greta Bellamacina, who describe Cave’s designs as ‘protective character’s cloaks.’ Despite the challenges she’s faced – including a recent relocation to a Kensington pad following the closure of her Brighton home – Cave exudes a quiet confidence, determined to create a brand that embodies both beauty and emotional resonance.