Rabat reborn: a moroccan capital rediscovered
Leila Slimani, the acclaimed author, isn’t just writing about Rabat; she’s returning to a city she fiercely loves, one dramatically transformed.
A royal city, reimagined
For decades, Rabat was dismissed as a provincial outpost, a pale shadow of Casablanca or Marrakesh. But Slimani, who spent summers and winter holidays in her hometown, now sees a vibrant, sophisticated metropolis – a testament to its rich history and strategic evolution. “I’ve seen the city transform radically since I left,” she observes, “and I must say I find it more beautiful every year.”
Luxury and tradition intertwined
The improvements are undeniable: a burgeoning infrastructure, a surge in cultural venues, and meticulously restored gardens. The Waldorf Astoria’s recent opening, with its breathtaking 360-degree views, exemplifies this shift. Yet, Slimani remains anchored to the city’s roots. Her fondness for the Balima Hotel, a historic landmark undergoing renovation, speaks volumes about her connection to Rabat’s past – and its promising future.
Echoes of the past, visions of the future
Born in the heart of the Bouregreg Valley, a lush haven for hundreds of birds, particularly storks (the city’s emblem), Rabat carries the weight of centuries. From its Andalusian origins to the establishment of a pirate republic in the 17th century, its story is etched in every stone. Even her father’s resting place, within the city’s marine cemetery, underscores his unwavering loyalty to Rabat.
Slimani’s insider’s guide
Hotel: “There are more and more beautiful hotels in Rabat, catering to all tastes and styles,” she recommends. “The Waldorf Astoria… the Balima Hotel, a true jewel… and Story Rabat’s charming garden and elegant décor.”
restaurants:
“Rabat offers something for every palate. Al Marsa, a seaside institution serving paella, transports you to Spain. For a vibrant Mexican experience, Juanita Banana is a must. And Muskaan offers refined cuisine and live music on weekends.”
breakfast:
“Simple, traditional breakfasts are the best. The cafés opposite the Central Market offer crepes, eggs with smoked meat, or a hearty tagine.”
drinks:
“Mint tea is a Moroccan essential – try it at Café Maure in the Casbah des Oudayas. It’s been a constant in my life.”
dessert:
“Maymana patisserie is a family affair. Their Moroccan pastries are exceptional, and their bread… simply the best I’ve ever tasted.”
late-night eats:
“La Mamma, founded by Italian settlers in the 1970s, remains a legendary spot. The pizza tastes exactly as I remember it.”
cultural gems:
Theater: “The Royal Theatre of Rabat, Africa’s largest, is a stunning architectural marvel – a whale-shaped building designed by Zaha Hadid. Best Dish: Ciciona’s couscous with breathtaking valley views. Shops: Medina Crush offers modern takes on Moroccan craftsmanship, while Ocean 17 showcases locally-made clothing and cosmetics.”
beyond the city walls:
“A day trip to Salé, Rabat’s maritime neighbor, is well worth it. Explore its medina, visit the madrasa, and discover the work of the Shems Foundation.”
a final note:
“Rabat is with me wherever I go, and I believe it will never cease to inspire me.”